You're never Fully Dressed without....

As I have mentioned before…fashion does indeed make the man. Living in a small town is no excuse for poor fashion. But in my first Small Town Style Guide I left out perhaps the single most important aspect of men’s dress. Shoes. Gentlemen, your footwear says more about you than your tie, suit, or cufflinks.

Men of all types walk into my office. For the most part, due to the nature of my business, these men come dressed in their nicer apparel. The definition of nice seems to fluctuate from man to man. No matter the economic background or breeding every man should wear appropriate shoes for their dress.

Black Nike’s should never be worn with a suit. Nor should Army boots. “But, Andrew,” you say, “I don’t own any dress shoes!” Well…GET SOME!!! I’m not telling you to go out any buy shoes that cost more than your monthly lottery budget. I am, however, telling you that shoes make the man. The quality of your shoes reveals how much you respect yourself. Of all the items in a man’s wardrobe, shoes are the single most important element of style.

With shoes, you get what you pay for. Even when times are tough, you can still spend a little more on well-made shoes because you can make them last much longer than a suit or a cashmere sweater. In fact, if you choose a pair of shoes made with real leather, sturdy stitching and solid soles, they will outlast almost all other items in your closet. You’ll be able to have them repaired over time at a fraction of the original purchase price, so spend as much as you reasonably can for a pair of shoes.

Plain dress oxfords might seem boring or too conservative amid a rack of pick-stitched ankle boots and fleur-de-lis perforated wingtips, (please tell me you know what those are) but consider for a moment that you’re buying a pair of shoes that you will wear to work (and interviews), weddings, funerals, first dates, and everything else in between. A classic dress oxford -- plain toe or cap toe -- will get you through more moments in your life than any other men’s shoe to date possibly could.

I told you all of that to tell you this: I was recently called out on my shoes. I confess. I have been wearing an inferior black dress shoe. They were cheap and didn’t last a year. So I forked out a little cash for a pair of quality shoes. Man up and Dress up. You’ll like the way you look.

Really?

While I may not be the most fashion forward person, I do pride myself on my sense of style. (Even though some accuse me of dressing a bit older than I need) Recently I have come across a clothing ad that depicts something, well, odd. I have seen it in several magazine ads, on the internet, and even in large store displays. I just don't get it. It is always the same guy too! So, below is the picture. Have you ever noticed that he always has his tie tucked into his pants? Is this some fashion statement that people actually do?

Oh Why Knot?

Back in October I posted my Small town Style Guide. To go along with that original post I would like to elaborate on perhaps the most essential aspect of men’s fashion…the neck tie.

I know what you’re thinking. And yes, there is more than one way to tie a knot around your neck. The first step is the most important. Walk to your closet right now. If you have any clip-on ties please throw them away right now. I’ll wait….. Unless you lost an arm in a rollerblading accident there is absolutely no reason that any grown man should wear a clip on tie. Don’t even walk past them in the store…(This includes bow ties. Unless you’re going to prom and have other things on your mind than your wardrobe there is no excuse to own a clip on bow tie.)

The biggest variance I see among tie wearers comes in the understanding of proper tie length. No matter the length (or girth) of your torso, the bottom of your neck tie should touch the top of your belt. With that being said it should be obvious that you should always wear a belt while wearing a tie. If you try several different knot styles and still can’t make it all the way to your belt you might need to wear extra long ties. This, like being a left-handed golfer, will prove to be a huge inconvenience in your life. Best of luck…

When selecting the color of your tie always remember that the tie should be darker in color and pattern than your shirt. The monochromatic look went out with Regis a few years ago…please don’t try to bring that back. If your shirt has a pattern, say a tattersall, then the tie should not over power the shirt. Don’t know what tattersall is…we have bigger problems.

When purchasing a neck tie always buy quality. There are certain retail stores that just don’t sell quality ties. A cheap tie will stand out like a cheap suit. Without quality material inside the tie, even the finest silk pattern will look bad. The standard width is, has been, and always will be 3.5 inches. Avoid buying anything wider (please), and while narrow ties might be okay for a younger generation of upward mobile yuppies they will not present the maturity and experience required in the professional world.

The most important part of the neck tie is the knot. The knot of the tie should be proportional to the collar of the shirt. Yes, Gentlemen, there is more than one style of shirt collar. There are in fact twelve common collar styles. That is another post for another time…

I will spare you the graphics of knot styles, but I encourage you to study them yourself and practice. But here is an example of the most common knot style – the four-in-hand knot. There is nothing more attractive and striking than a well dressed man. Do your best to look your best. Neck ties can be a struggle, but it is a struggle that you can overcome. Each tie will take a knot differently. But if you take the time and pride in selecting your tie and its knot you will learn to be a better man because of it.

(Small Town) Style Guide

Olney, Illinois is far from being the most fashionable town. Really far. But that does not mean that the men of this community shouldn’t look their best. In my line of work I wear a tie to work everyday. Sometimes it is just a tie alone, and some days it is a suit and tie. The people that walking into my place of business come from all walks of life, but one thing that seems common is their perception that they must look ‘good.’ I am often amused at people’s definition of ‘good.’

In an effort to bring a little class and style to my small corner of the world I have been putting together a short style guide for men.


1. Fit is King – The most dramatic improvement you can make in your style is to make sure everything fits. Most guys wear clothes that are too large. Make sure everything you wear is almost hugging the curves of your body - without being tight. Bad fit is an epidemic, cure yourself.

2. Keep it current – That suit you wore to your daughter’s wedding in 1975 should not be worn to your brother’s funeral in 2009. In fact, it shouldn’t be in your closet at all. And by the way, it doesn’t still fit.

3. Change the way you see casual - casual doesn’t have to be boring. Have fun with collared shirts, or take some inspiration from those who approach casual a bit differently. If your workplace allows casual dress, then I encourage you to do it in your own unique style. Save the golf shirt and kakis for your weekend on Hilton Head.

4. Pay attention to your supporting pieces – We have entered sweater season. Some sweaters are lean and others are big and chunky. The first rule of thumb is that your top and bottom halves need to match. If you’re wearing a big, chunky, rugged fisherman knit sweater, your bottom needs to be rugged, too. Don’t wear a big bulky sweater from the GAP with a beautiful silk-and-wool suit pant. Instead, wear it with something as casual as cargoes or jeans, or dress it up with a tweed blazer. Don’t know what tweed is? …we have bigger problems.

5. Never go shopping alone – You can never really trust the sales people because they usually work for commission (at high end stores), or could care less about your style. The buddy system should always be used while shopping. But be sure your buddy will tell you the truth.

6. Stay at least a notch above - Don’t overdo it to a fault, but still take some risks. It’s always better to be a little bit overdressed than underdressed in a situation. All you have to do is think about where and who you’re going to be with and just step it up one notch. But make sure you’re not better dressed than someone who is more important in a certain setting, like you’re boss or the groom. You can always diminish an over dressed look, but it is not possible to dress up jeans and a polo.

7. Never underestimate the power of details – The last thing on is usually the first thing noticed. So mind the details instead of throwing together the main parts of your outfit. “Details” can include a scarf, a subtle pocket square, to the way you tie your tie knot. Yes, gentlemen, there is more than one way to tie a knot. I am shocked at the number of men that ask me to tie their necktie before they walk into my business. Speaking of ties…never wear a tie with a short-sleeved dress shirt. Better yet, never buy a dress shirt with short sleeves.

8. Invest in a good pair of shoes – If it’s one thing that women will notice, it’s your shoes. Especially how clean they are. It’s easy to wash and press (or steam) the rest of your clothes to keep them looking new, but most guys disregard their shoes. Show you’re a man of taste by getting a nice pair of shoes and keeping them in pristine condition. It’s the fastest way to showing others that you take care of yourself. And remember this simple rule when wearing a suit: Dress up = laces up. Never wear loafers or slip on shoes with a suit.

9. Fashion Tees and logos – When you’re going around with a big logo on your shirt, you risk looking like a walking billboard. Nobody cares about the brand of your shirt. And that fun tee that says “Keep staring…I might do a trick” should not be worn after 8th grade. Be an adult.

10. Disregard trends – You shouldn’t wear something just because it’s “in” right now. Always build a versatile and timeless (or classic) wardrobe first, and then bring in your own twists with some of the new stuff. This one tip has saved me so much money. But be warned…while some styles are promised to “come back,” they may come back with subtle differences that will certainly date your wardrobe if you hold on to pieces too long. Learn to let go!

11. Don’t be a sucker for brand names - Don’t be a yuppie. Before you decide to purchase an item, ask yourself if you are buying it because it’s “in style” or because it genuinely suits you. Ask yourself if you would buy the garment if it didn’t have a logo on it. I generally pass on garments that have their brand blazoned in an effort to grab attention.

12. Stay away from clogs and Crocs - They do not look good on anybody. I don’t care if they are comfortable. Enough said.

13. An undershirt is an undershirt - An undershirt is meant to be worn underneath your dress shirt or sweater to absorb the sweat, dirt, and body oils that we all inevitable secrete. (Nice, right?) I do advocate laundering your shirts after a days wear. An undershirt should ALWAYS be worn under a dress shirt. Nobody wants to see your man nipples silhouetted behind that sheer white dress shirt. Please do not wear a wife beater, v-neck, or crew-neck undershirt by itself with jeans after the age of 18. Ever.

14. Upgrade your shave - Even if all the threads are gold, an unkempt beard can be an instant attraction killer. A few days worth of scruff looks good on certain people, but chances are that you are not one of those people. Achieve that perfect shave by adding a shave brush, soap & old-fashioned double-edged razor. They got that right back in the old days.

15. Experiment with style – The only way you’ll really learn, is if you go out there and try new things. If you make mistakes, life goes on. So many guys are afraid to express themselves through their style, don’t be one of them. Never follow the crowd.